Showing posts with label FIDM. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FIDM. Show all posts

Jan 6, 2008

The Blood Drive Of 1989

(when coffee cost 25 cents and came with a roach)



Back in 1989 I was a nineteen year old fashion design student living in San Francisco, sharing a one bedroom apartment with my bisexual best friend who was energetically partying his life away. I don’t think it’s particularly important to note that he was bisexual except that every time I think of him it is impossible not to see flashes of him making out with various people he brought home from clubs. A sight I would have gladly ignored were it not made impossible by the glass French doors which divided our rooms.

A glass French door I tried to break by throwing at it a hideous ceramic “vase” I had made in the eighth grade and vehemently hated but felt weirdly hesitant to throw away. Actually, I threw it at J during a huge fight, but it sounds less violent to try to break a French door. My aim has always been famous for it’s awesome ability to miss it’s mark by several hundred inches; I not only didn’t hit J, nor the French door, but worst of all- the stupid fucking vase didn’t break and I still have it to this day.

I may not be able to throw anything to save my life, but apparently I have the skill of an ancient Mayan to make disturbing ceramic artifacts that will survive Armageddon. God is gonna find that African styled “vase” when we’re all gone and it’s going to scare the shit out of him.

By the time we lived in our apartment in the Richmond district I was drifting inexorably away from the club scene and from people in general. This created fissures in the tenuous bonds that had made J and I friends in the first place. J had “attended” the same school as I did which is where we originally met. In the cafeteria over automatic coffee with the occasional cockroach floater. But by 1989 he had left FIDM for Parsons, a much more prestigious school. We lived together. That was all.

My memories of my life before I turned twenty are all in flashes and strange short film format. Sharp excerpts of what should have been a sweeping long story but which have been chopped inexpertly by someone half blind. Or by someone with the scissor skills of a two year old. If I try to tell my story in chronological graceful lines I become instantly mute. My pen ink leaks and my hands carry blue marks from skin to page to mug to face to smears on the bathroom sink. And I walk out in the world this way.

When I think of it now I’m not sure how a blood drive came to be run through a fashion design school. Who thought it was a good idea to pump out gallons of amphetamine-tainted cells to give to sick people? Best case scenario in a school full of fashion students is anemic malnourished blood full of twenty five cent automatic coffee, with the dubious presence of cockroach traces.

I’m not sure if I was struck with the sudden image of me doing a Florence Nightingale number with the accompanying sharp nurse’s uniform that I had surely already half sewn in my head, or if the blood drive people threw me guilt laden dagger stares as I sidled past them, but I laid myself down to give a pint of my best. My blood was not anemic they told me with some surprise. It was dark and viscous which was the tip-off, they told me.


I remember the nurse with her perky cap, a type of cap I’ve always longed to have an excuse to wear, leaning into me, with some pricker poised over my finger, telling me that I would barely feel the staple dive into my flesh to reveal it’s secrets. It had been at least a year since my body had last been suspended in a place of no pain. I felt pain now. Even though I still often felt disconnected from myself at random moments. I felt all physical pain.

It has been my experience that nurses are liars. They say that “you won’t feel a thing” or that “it won’t hurt very much”. “It’ll be over in a(n interminable) second” they assure you. That finger staple makes a huge sharp noise as it shoots down into your skin. The noise itself is the sound of pain. While the nurse squeezed my bloody finger to find out if I was a drug addict or suffering from tuberculosis we engaged in a surreal conversation in which she congratulated me on the quality of my blood, the rich color, the thickness of it…just the kind of blood they needed.

When the little dish of my blood revealed it’s secrets she told me that my blood had the added blessing of being A-, a blood type they always needed more of because it was rare. I never knew my blood could make a person so happy.

I remember having to turn away from the filling sack of fluid, the hoses attached to my arm running with red, and to try to block out the sound of my own blood pumping and coursing through my own body because it was loud. So loud I was sure that everyone else could hear the cacophony of flooding tissues too. I had to try to ignore the disquieting feeling of the enormous needle stuck there, a needle I had thought insignificant before they tried to find a vein with it.

They told me to wait. Wait to go home. I saw the sun shifting from reflective high-rise windows to the warm stone of nearby old buildings. I could see the arteries of traffic growing more congested. I wanted to be home. I needed the peacefulness of riding the Geary Muni home. I was momentarily fixed in place by the light. It was the soft light of approaching evening. I hunger for that light. I get lost in that light.

I don’t remember leaving the FIDM building. I don’t remember waiting on the corner for the Geary line. I don’t remember squeezing myself between the packed human bodies to find a spot on the hand rail. I only know that once on the muni all the voices around me faded, like a rushing noise, noise like loud far away water, none of them distinguishable. Just a large mass of noise outside my circle of quiet. There was almost certainly someone picking their nose in the seat in front of me.

I only remember the ivy leaves. The light on the ivy leaves. Was it a memory of ivy leaves the light was fixed on, or was it ivy I saw in the road divider? Hushed. Hushed quiet absorbing the sharpest flecks of hard light on reflective green surfaces. Resurfacing. In the quiet of the lit green leaves. Something kept climbing up out of the dark to be revealed to me in the middle of human chaos. Something important. If I could eat that light, or breath it, or touch it…it stayed in my cornea like the most painfully delicate revelation. Diamonds on the green. I’m not sure I breathed. It was like watching a birth where you don’t know if you are filled with the craziest joy at the gorgeousness of emerging life with all the hope the first breath of life brings to us all - or immeasurably sad knowing that the second breath brings hunger and cold and suckling into the blind air for touch and milk which sometimes never comes.

The light turned to liquid gold. The light became warm and absorbed the hard flecks, melting into the green.

Suddenly the noise was so loud in my ear that I had to fight not to rush to the front of the muni in a panic and beg to get off. No one was getting off. We were in stopped traffic. I hadn’t realized. We’d been stopped in traffic interminably as the light went from hard bright, to embracing gold, to cooling shadows.

The first thing I saw was a roll of blood spattered toilet paper on the road. Half rolled out as though dropped in a great rush. An intimate article in suspended animation. I saw it first, before I saw the smashed cars. Before I saw the flashing blue and red lights, or heard the sirens, or saw the grim faces of the paramedics.

Just a roll of bloody toilet paper unfurling itself in the road like a single Angel Trumpet bloom at twilight, opening with silent grace; secretly revealing the private life of stamens. White and red like flags of truce and war. Rolling out a like a long carpet for consumptive brides. Like the entrails of ghosts.

At last there was a shiver back to focus. Focus away from the minutiae and back to body and place and seeing the accident recede farther and farther behind us as we finally began crawling toward home. Home where sometime soon I was going to discover a side of beef my bisexual room mate had left in the oven to defrost and forgot about for two weeks.

But that’s a story for a really good bottle of wine.

May 31, 2007

On The Hunt For The Ever Elusive Sloper...
(An exciting post in which I talk about really esoteric pattern drafting needs)

I'm feeling generous today and will give you three guesses what kind of clothes I was into wearing at the time I made this sketch. That's a lot of guesses and I think you should know that I will judge you harshly if you need all three of them. This sketch was made in either 1990, or 1991.

And another thing: get a load of that really long neck on the babe to the left! Now why do people think long necks are so attractive? I'm stumped. I think it looks gangly and kind of wrong. Meanwhile...the other babe seems to have no neck at all. What does it say about me that I prefer the no-necked babe to the one who obviously used to wear neck-elongating rings around hers? Does it mean I'm vain since I have a short neck myself?

I have been designing cobbler aprons and smocks for a very long time. Back in the dark ages when I had a waist but no meds (so I was actually quite miserable in spite of having a pretty darn nice looking size 14 off the rack bootie. Funny how that works, huh?) I designed quite a lot of garments that I would have made if only I could have gotten my hands on a decent set of slopers. Unless you are already a fashion designer/pattern drafter, you probably don't know what "slopers" are, huh? They are basic master patterns from which all other patterns are drafted.

I made a perfect set at the Fashion Institute Of Design And Merchandising in San Francisco. Incidentally, they say they continue to help place alumni in jobs, don't believe the hype. I called them for job leads about seven years after graduating and they did exactly squat for me. They were actually kind of mystified about why I would come to them looking for job leads when they had already spent the twenty thousand dollars I paid them for teaching me to draft patterns and sketch poorly*.

Back to the slopers... Over time I lost a couple of essential pieces to my perfectly trued slopers in size 10 (which would now probably be equivalent to a size 6, maybe even a 4 at this point judging from the body size of people who claim to be a size 4.). Losing any piece of a set of slopers renders them useless. I could have made myself a new set if only I had gotten myself a professional dress form. But since those cost over $600 which I just didn't ever seem to have, I invested what has ended up amounting to over six hundred dollars worth of less useful cheaper dress forms as well as a set of slopers that turned out to be complete shit. I have learned a couple of valuable lessons here:

  • Never lose the perfect slopers you made in design school and which took you an entire semester to perfect. Especially if you got an A in the class based on their perfection.

  • Spend the amount of money you need to to do a thing right or you'll end up wasting the same amount trying to do it cheaper and less well.

  • "Just My Size" foam dress forms suck. Yeah, I wasn't sad when mine melted in the great attic fire of 2003. Adjustable dress forms are slightly better. But there's no substitute for the real thing and some day I just might have to buy myself a paper mache dress form covered in canvas and all the proper seam markings.

I have noticed that many writers don't get published or hit their stride until rather later in life. This seems to work out fine and may explain why I have not felt that I must be published right this second or lose all chance of ever being considered worthy of print. But has there ever been a designer who came to it late in life? I don't think so.

My love affair with fashion is one that I cherish and I won't be giving up on it any time soon. Perhaps I'll hit my clothing design stride when I'm a very ripe 70 year old and stun all the arrogant little upstarts who think they're going to conquer the world. I could show them a thing or two right now at 38 years of age.

Which makes me sound like the arrogant one. But just imagine me sending normal sized people down the catwalk to a stunned audience, the clothes are so cool everyone watching wants to look like a peasant homesteader too, and they are expecting some chain-smoking punk to take bows at the end. Instead...here I come, as fat as a seal, leaning on a cane because I've just gotten my hip replaced, and I'm sporting my blue-washed hair in a very mediocre bob because I still can't find a good hairdresser...and I become a smash hit because it's all too irresistibly odd...





*It really isn't their fault I can't render fabrics and patterns to save my life.

Note: hopefully you all already know this: everything on this blog, especially these amazing designs here, is copy-righted to me. Me, Dustpan Alley, aka Angelina. But I didn't really need to say that, did I? I can't actually figure out how come I haven't already put the standard caution on my blog. Does this mean I think no one would want to steal my coolness factor?